Reclining back on the reception lounge of my hotel, I am staring at my best friend Kathleen. I cannot believe I managed to convince her to fly to Jordan to visit me, but alas, here she is. Skype and emails go a long way in bridging the gap between wandering souls (me) and those who prefer a much saner and safer way of life (her), but there’s nothing like a one on one, in Jordan no less, to reconnect with long time friends.

This Middle Eastern Kingdom is snuggly wedged between hotspots like Iraq, Saudi Arabia and Israel; yet its people have retained a relaxed and welcoming attitude, probably because the world around them is in so much turmoil. The fact that it is a relatively small country to explore by car (a 10 day self drive holiday will see you take in all the major sights) Jordan is jam packed with UNESCO SITES, cultural points of interest and quite possibly the best food in the Arab world.

AMMAN, Jordan’s Capital

Amman
Image Credits: Laura Pattara

It is raining incessantly on our first day together in the capital Amman. I had originally planned a visit to the local outdoor bazaar, lunch in a hole –in-the wall falafel joint downtown and perhaps a tea and shisha smoking session in the afternoon. But we need to make a quick change of plans.
“How about we go to a hammam?” I offer “I found the perfect one only a 10 minute ride away. It’s considered to be the best in town. How about we soak, scrub and massage instead?”
“Oh that sound s great! I wanted to visit one when I was last in Turkey but dared not go alone.” My jovial buddy responds.

Al Pasha Hammam is a hazy and enticing marble haven open only to women during daytime hours. It is the epitome of decadence. Colorful mosaic tiles and dim chandeliers give the place a wonderfully exotic atmosphere. We steam, soak and bubble for hours while sipping icy-cold hibiscus tea, awaiting our turn at the ‘scrubbing table’. Soon we’re approached by an Asian girl asking for the ‘next in line’.
Playing host means I get to go first and, after a 20 minute session, return to a hysterical Kathleen soaking in the hot tub.

“Oh my goodness, did you see how much dead skin she scrubbed off you?” She screams in delight.
“That’s not dead skin! There’s soft tissue and bone fragments in there too!” I protest. It’s true that strong shower heads have been hard to find lately, but I am somewhat annoyed at the fact that I seem to have no tan left. Hmmm…

DEAD SEA

Kathleen and I jump in our hire car at 7am next day and head straight for the Dead Sea, a mere hour’s drive away.

The Dead Sea
Image Credits:Laura Padgett

The Dead Sea is located 422 meters below sea level and is 9 times saltier than the Pacific Ocean. Its density makes it one of Mother Nature’s ideal playgrounds. We soon find a resort offering day passes and within minutes are bobbing around the sea like mad sea-otters. Covering ourselves in the reputedly therapeutic mud from head to toe, we are quick to take some snaps before our skin goes stiff as a board and we can no longer smile. Some of the world’s most exclusive resorts are found here, although we fail to see their appeal. There’s only so long you can soak in extremely salty water before your ovaries get permanently preserved; you’d end up spending more time by the chlorinated swimming pool!

After a couple of hours, and quite a few refreshing showers, we hop in our car and head to our next stop.

PETRA

The Monastery (Al Dier), Petra, Jordan
Image Credits:Dennis Jarvis

Built in the 6th century BC and named the Red-Rose City for the amazing colors of the rock hewn facades, Petra was recently chosen by the BBC as one of ‘the 40 places you have to see before you die.”
We spend 8 hours getting lost in the ancient Nabataean city, yet we could seriously spend week on end hiking through the red, rocky hills. This UNESCO World heritage Site is the single biggest tourist attraction in Jordan and it’s not difficult to see why. Even Harrison Ford made it here to film Indiana Jones!

The intricate carvings on the massive facades are something to behold; coupled with the heat and dust it makes for quite a surreal experience. Petra is like a real life time travel machine. We’re talking about a city which was occupied, and lived in, around three and a half thousand years ago. We’re making buildings nowadays which can barely stand a natural disaster, yet their temples, churches and amphitheaters thrive now like never before.

AQABA

Jordan may only boast 26kms of coastline…but when that coastline is on the Red Sea you soon learn that here, it’s all about quality, not quantity.

Aqaba
Image Credits: Laura Pattara

The city is hot and sticky and we head straight to the Aqaba Diving Centre. The Diving Centre offers day passes to its private beach and all the snorkeling and diving equipment one can imagine.

Regarded as one of the top diving destinations in the world, the Red Sea displays colorful corals, countless endemic sea life and quite a few old wreck dives. Unfortunately, the gale-force winds that greet us make it almost impossible to snorkel, lest we be swept across to Israel. We manage to stay around the reef long enough to see some coral and tickle the fishys, and spend the rest of the afternoon by the pool baking and chatting.

WADI RUM

We could almost pass as locals, aboard our belching camels; the only dead giveaway that we’re tourists is the insane amount of photos we take once we reach Wadi Rum, an incredible valley cut into sandstone and granite rock formations; also known as the ‘Valley of the Moon’.

Considered one of the best rock climbing areas in the world, Kathleen and I have unfortunately not enough time to spend the required few day here hiking, and staying in Bedouin camps. We barely manage a two hour camel ride before we need to head back to Amman; however I would highly recommend a visit to discover ancient petro-glyphs, hike the highest peaks and take in the best views of the Red Sea.

When to go, how to get there and what to do…

The best time to visit Jordan is during spring (March-May) and autumn (Sept-Nov); when you’ll enjoy a respite from the scorching summertime temperatures. Although the country is quite small, its various altitudes mean that it may be difficult to pick a ‘perfect’ month.

Kathleen and I toured in February and while temperatures in Amman were a little on the low side, it was certainly bearable; whilst only a few hours away, in Petra, any hotter and we would have melted. So pick your battles.

Amman International Airport is serviced by all major airlines, and the capital is the perfect first base for your travels. While hotels and hostels are numerous, do book in advance if going in high season. We’d (still) highly recommend hiring a car and traversing the country on your own, it was just so easy!
While modern in all respects, do show off your cultural sensitivities; even in extreme heat, cover your shoulders and legs. Actually, in deserty countries, you’ll soon learn that long sleeved cotton kaftans are a Godsend, as are lose fitting long trousers. Sun burns here are pure evil.

A highly desirable destination with a difference, Jordan offers the best of culture, history, nature and cuisine…and it’s all yours for the taking.

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Nairobi National Park

This national park has been in existence since 1946 and it is the oldest in the land. The park is located approximately 7 kilometers from the city center of Nairobi. While at the park you are able to spot the skyscrapers that are in the city center. Indeed this is the only national park at such close proximity to a city.

How to get there

Due to its close proximity to the city you can easily get there by road. The road to the facility is in perfect condition thus getting there should not be a hassle. If you are coming from a different country and flying into the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, you can find a taxi to take you to the park. The facility has a number of entrances that you can use to gain access.

Giraffe in Nairobi National Park
Image Credits:Anna Kika

What to expect

In the park you will be able to see a number of wild animals that under normal circumstances we do not expect to find in the city. The park is home to lions, leopards, hyenas, wildebeests, cheetahs, buffalos, baboons, etc. The lush green vegetation that characterizes the park offers a perfect home to herbivorous animals whose food requirements are perfectly met. You will get to see the lions and other carnivorous animals do their hunting, while the prey attempts to save its life.

Major Attractions

Apart from the animals in the park you also get to explore other features offered by the park. You will get to see the monument that was erected in commemoration of the burning of the largest haul of ivory in the world in the fight against elephant poaching.

Some leading personalities that have had the pleasure of visiting this beautiful park have adopted some wild animals whose care is catered for by them. You can get to see the cheetah that was adopted by Uasin Bolt, the record holder of both the 100 and 200 meters sprints at the animal orphanage.

Accommodation

The park is home to a number of lodges where you can find accommodation at very fair rates. You can also opt for alternative accommodation at the heart of the city; and thus experience the two extremes of the world simultaneously.

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Well aligned in a slow walking row, the orange procession of the Buddhist monks is coming down the street. It is 5am, the sun shines and the city is already awake. The backfiring tuktuks are dashing to get their first customers, and the food stalls are spreading their smells around the neighbourhood. Last night doesn’t seem to have pushed people to go to sleep, or maybe I am late and I missed the very beginning of the show.

Buddhist Monks collecting offerings
Image Credits: Olivier Roulin

Arranged in small groups, the monks quietly walk on the side of the road. Regularly stopping, they are waiting to be given offerings from people meeting them in front of their house – mainly women. The monks avoid contact either with the gifts or with their benefactors; they only let the generous people slip their offerings in a round tin urn strapped around their orange toga. To accompany them in this task, a younger disciple is walking with them, mainly hanging around to quietly observe and to hold an umbrella protecting his mentor from the sun.

From where I am, I can see money, sticky rice, fruits or candles being offered. Each time a monk receives something from someone, he says a short prayer to bestow good fortune on their charitable donator, and then silently walks away. All the people give a lot to the monks; it is believed in Buddhism that being generous with them will help one having a better life in their next step towards Enlightenment… or maybe a prayer would be beneficial to their problems or even their business.

Watching this ceremony from afar awakens in me the need to unveil the mystery of the Buddhist Monks…

Wat Chedi Luang’s “Monk Chat”

Image Credits: Olivier Roulin

I am in Chiang Mai, vibrating commercial city of northern Thailand. Chiang Mai has completely fallen into tourism’s hands and every street is infested by gift shops, expensive travelling books boutiques, Irish pubs, pizzerias or “Thai massage” salons. The night market, even if sparkling with colours and sequins, is clearly overrated. In this tourist uproar, it is possible though to step away and to find quiet islands in the old city. Some temples in town offer this quietness. I step inside the magnificent Wat Chedi Luang, in the very centre of the old city. This immense 14th century temple which sheltered the famous Emerald Buddha during the 15th century is more than 80m high… it is hugely imposing. Gathered around – a few other nice temples and what seems to be the administrative centre.

As I walk past this building, a small poster attracts my attention: “Every day from 8am to 5pm, join the Monk Chat”. This is the chance to unveil the mystery! Hopefully, I will meet a Buddhist monk and have the chance to know more about his life. I saw in my travel guide book that the Chiang Mai North University organized this kind of cultural exchange, but I didn’t know Wat Chedi Luang would offer the same opportunity. With no hesitation, I rush to the reception and ask for a meeting with a monk. In very basic English, the receptionist tells me there is no Monk Chat today because the monks are not available but I should come back tomorrow anytime.

The day after, the monks are not available either for some obscure reason…

And God created the Monk…

On the third day, my insistence is at last rewarded. As I step inside the small building, the receptionist recognizes me and smiles at me. No monk is visible anywhere, but she tells me to wait a moment outside, one might come soon. I sit next to a small table in the courtyard, and wait. After 20 minutes, an orange stain appears at the horizon, and seems to be approaching.

The monk walks past me. I try “Monk Chat?”. He looks at me. He seems to hesitate. After a few seconds – a weird moment – he finally sits in front of me just saying “okay”…

His name is Pritcha. He is 28 years old. He is struggling a bit with English, but does well. He comes from Laos, the neighbouring country. He had to become a monk to pay respect after the death of one of his parents, as it is a tradition in Buddhism. He took this opportunity to benefit from the cheap education provided to young boys willing to become a monk. In fact, most of the young boys choose to become a monk because the studies are 50% cheaper for them. It is hard indeed to get good education because schools can be quite expensive. But claiming they are a monk, youngsters have access to university for a bargain compared to the normal price.

Image Credits: Olivier Roulin

Anyway, being a monk for at least a couple of years is a prerequisite for every young Buddhist boy. After this period of time, they can simply decide they want to go back to “normal life” – or not. Some simply remain in holy orders. If they do, it is of great pride for the family to have a monk amongst them and will definitely bring them good omen. It’s been more than 8 years that Pritcha has been a monk. I ask him if it is a vocation to him. He replies he has chosen long studies to become a teacher, and confesses to me that he is now a bit bored with being one.

The 21st century monk

Bored to be a monk? What of the vocation? What of the mystery? I start to understand that being a monk is more like going off to do military service… Mostly, they have to do it.

But further than my questions, Pritcha seems to pay a special interest to other subjects, especially football. He loves football. The discussion digresses. He wants to know how David Beckham is doing these days. He is quite unlucky to find out that this sport is not really one of my interests and that I can’t provide him with any useful information. As we are just chatting about sports, something rings. It sounds like a cell phone. He looks at me smiling, and plunges his hand into his toga. He pulls out his brand new Blackberry and reads an SMS he just received. He smiles again. “I have to go now” he says, gets up, shakes my hand, and quickly walks away… I stay sitting here, wondering.

I guess I won’t know more. My “Monk Chat” ends just as it started; suddenly. My romantic vision of these mystic ascetic people is now a bit clearer, even if new questions now come to me. And my main one about Buddhist Monks now is: “What was this SMS saying?”

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Unique housing by the Pueblo people

The Valles Caldera volcano erupted over a million years ago near there, and the lava that overflowed left a variety of different materials. Pueblo people carved caves in the softer substances to create shelter. These holes were often very high off the ground to offer more protection. You can still see the steps in the cliffs where they carefully accessed their multi-storied “apartments.” Now, there are ladders making it possible to check out these wonderful dwellings. Some are quite large and include a kiva used for religious purposes. Petroglyphs and rock paintings are also common to witness.

Go exploring – Hike and camp in Bandelier

Bandelier National Forest
Image Credits:Graeme Churchard

For the dedicated outdoor adventurer this is a wonderland. There is an abundance of hiking, camping and exploring. A lot of the area is pretty primitive, but that makes the adventure even better. Lots of birds, deer, rattlesnakes, bats and even horny toads inhabit the area. There are also easy trails and plenty to do for those wanted to stick closer in. Most of the park’s main structures were built in the 1930’s and are know as Bandelier CCC Historic District; they make the visit more unique as well.

Alamos – a contrasting scene

Not too far from what “seems like miles from anywhere” you will find Los Alamos. Since you are just around the corner, make sure you add this to your agenda. I am sure a lot of the same residents back in the 10th century frequented this region too, but the scientific history of this town should not be missed. In the early 1940’s Los Alamos was the background setting for the creation of the atom bomb. It was a very secure location for the government. No matter what a person holds as a personal belief towards this, the history here is more than intriguing. The contrast between that and the peaceful life the Pueblo people strove for at Bandelier is certainly striking.

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The Maasai people give a true picture of how things used to be just by seeing how they live today. They live a nomadic kind of life. It is a culture that has not been tainted, just as pure as it used to be in the olden days. Just to give you a hint of what the Maasai do in their lives, just picture this, a man with nothing but a spear going after a lion!

The Maasai Way of Life

The Maasai live in huts which are made of cow dung, grass, mud and wooden planks. They believe in the family unit and as such they live as a community in Manyattas. The Manyattas are made of a number of homesteads which are all fenced off using thorny bushes. The huts are built by the women.

The young men in the family take care of the livestock, which is a treasured resource in the community. A Man’s wealthy is assessed in terms of his livestock, the more the animals one owns the richer he is perceived to be. The warriors, who are referred to as Morans, provide security to their people. The elders engage in the settlement of disputes.

Ceremonies and Rituals of the Maasai

Maasai People of Kenya
Image Credits: Javier Carcamo

The ceremonies that the Maasai celebrate are mostly as a result of graduation from one age group to another. Ceremonies such as Enkipaata, Emuratta, Enkiama, Eudoto and Eunoto are celebrated. Each of the ceremonies marks a milestone in ones life. For example Eunoto is a ceremony that is celebrated as young men are initiated into senior warriors of the community. Most of these ceremonies are accompanied by slaughtering of cows whose meat is eaten by the elders and the initiates.

An Attraction like No Other

A visit to Maasai land is not just like any other visit. You will get to interact with the Maasais as they go on with their daily routines, watch them go out to graze in the wild where wild animals appear to be in perfect harmony with domesticated animals. You will get to watch them as they dance to their traditional songs with a kind of energy that you have never seen.

How to Get There

You will be able to get to Maasai land through the good road network that connects this region with all the major cities of the country, with well trained tour guides at hand to take you around. Accommodation in a hotel/lodge within Maasai land should offer you an authentic Maasai feel.

The Maasai believe in one thing; that they cannot allow their culture to be changed. they have a saying that says “It takes one day to destroy a house; to build a new one takes months, perhaps years. If we abandon our way of life to construct a new one, it will take thousands of years”.

Banner image credits:Frédéric Salein

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I imagined a life of rusty tractors and dewy mornings, and took the opportunity to volunteer in the north of Israel in September. A commune of 425, it was nestled between pine trees and the Lebanese border, and looked and felt like a retirement village with its functional houses, pretty gardens and golf buggies. But its innocence was stolen by the barbed wire surrounding it.

Most volunteers were 19, of every religion or none at all, and looked beautiful and lost in their hippie trousers. The Latinos stuck together, their Spanish spoken like gunshots. The group who had already volunteered for a few months clucked across the common area with pride. And thirty new volunteers hovered around, nervous and thinking of home in Korea, South Africa, Sweden.

Each day we would slip into the pool in the late afternoon sun or wander round the Kibbutz, chattering as loudly as the birds above. Nights were shiny images of people laughing round the campfire, sharing shisha and playing guitar.

But these beautiful pockets of life could not negate the monotony of spending ten hours a day in the fruit-packing factory. 6.30 a.m., we would be stationed by streams of conveyor belts, apples trundling along to be packed into boxes. A depressed atmosphere with no windows and little thanks, meal times were snatches of happiness.

This was one rich Kibbutz; the canteen was fit for a cruise ship. But the food was ersatz: it would look like Bolognese but taste of water, or resemble quiche but taste like cardboard. Our taste buds learned to stay silent. We ate with our eyes and prayed for 4 p.m.

Two days off a week, Saturdays were guaranteed. But Israel closes down on Shabbat, and there is no point getting out of bed with nothing to do. So we used up our energy on Friday nights, by joining members at the pub/club. On those nights the bomb shelter became a lovers’ den, because the rooms were shared between volunteers and bed bugs.

However, the volunteers’ community lost its innocence as quickly as in Lord of the Flies, and in just six weeks in, I left in search of Utopia once more.

To volunteer on a Kibbutz, apply to the Kibbutz Program Center. This requires a medical, and you need to fill in the simple forms a month before you want to volunteer. Once you arrive in Tel Aviv, visit the KPC office and they will assign you to a Kibbutz in need of volunteers. If you feel uncomfortable with where you are placed, for example if it is near Gaza, you can wait for another offer though it may take days.

Image Credits: Ian McKellar